Day 25 – Lausanne to Gland (34,8km) – Thuesday 25.07.2023
I got up at 7 a.m. and packed everything up. I had a quick meal in my room and then set off early as I had a long stretch ahead of me today.
I quickly left the city behind and walked along the lake in a relaxed manner. I took a short break at a park bench right by the lake to prepare my morning coffee. After a few seconds I ran out of gas and my first gas cartridge was empty. Luckily it was just enough to warm the water. I enjoyed my lukewarm coffee even more while enjoying the view of the water and the mountains beyond. On the other side of the lake I could already see the predicted rain falling.
After I continued my hike, I walked along the lake for a while. After that we went further and further away from the lake. After a while I met a small group of pilgrims. The four older women wanted to run as far as they could in 10 days and were on the second day so far. I joined them for a few minutes and chatted with them about the journey so far and the further stages planned. After almost 10 minutes I said goodbye to them again because the pace was a little too slow for me.
After another leg to the lake and away from it again, I met another pilgrim who was seeking shelter from the rain under a tree. I also stood under the protective tree and chatted with him until the rain lessened. The man, who comes from Germany, actually started from Konstanz and, like me, wanted to go all the way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. A few years ago he had already walked the path on a different route. Since he is currently in semi-retirement, he now has enough time to pursue this path. I was happy to finally meet a pilgrim who was walking a similar route to me and who had planned to complete the entire distance. At least it made me feel a little less crazy. When the rain lessened again, he continued walking again and I briefly turned into a church next door to pick up a stamp.
Then I continue my hike. Since I still had a few kilometers to run and heavy rain and thunderstorms were forecast for this evening, I hurried again. On the way I read a sign about a pilgrim accommodation, which was supposed to be 16km away. I called there and arranged with the woman that I would be there at 5. Since it was already after 1 a.m., I quickly set off again to complete the last 16km in just under 3.5 hours.
With the weather now nice again, I walked through fruit and vegetable gardens. I covered the distance quickly and actually arrived at the accommodation 10 minutes before 5. After today’s 35km I was happy to have arrived. A short time later the woman from the phone call came over to show me everything. For 10 francs it was actually a kind of luxury accommodation that I even had all to myself.
After taking a relaxing shower, I bought some dinner at a nearby supermarket and ended the day relaxing.
Day 26 – Gland to Genf (37,2km) – Wednesday 26.07.2023
I woke up at 7 a.m. well rested. I packed up my things and prepared my breakfast, which I had bought at the supermarket the day before. Since I took my time eating breakfast, I didn’t leave the accommodation until around 8 a.m.
First we went through the forest. I walked along old fortifications, which I didn’t expect in this area. A little later I passed an old monastery with a beautiful monastery garden before I was allowed to go back into the vineyards. On this section of the path I had a constant view of the lake.
Although the weather was good and the view was beautiful, I somehow didn’t particularly feel like running today. Maybe it was just the slightly oppressive weather or the recent exertion. But since I finally wanted to get out of expensive Switzerland, I just kept walking. When I saw the famous fountain a few kilometers from Geneva, it gave me a little boost of motivation.
Then with new strength I ran on to Geneva. There I looked for a place for tonight. Since the youth hostel was unfortunately already fully booked, I had to walk further into the city center. There I took a room in an overpriced hotel. As I fell exhausted onto the bed in the room, I realized that I had actually run over 37km today. So I didn’t feel like visiting the city. I bought a Yufka from the kebab shop opposite and quickly ate it. Afterwards I lay back on the bed in the hotel and just rested.
Day 27 – Geneva to Neydens (20,7km) – Thursday 27.07.2023
After a very restful night, I got up at 8:30. First I went to a supermarket to buy a small breakfast. Then I walked to the city’s cathedral and found that it was still closed. So I just ran back down to the lake. When I got there, I noticed that unfortunately the fountain was still out. I sit on a bench and eat my breakfast there. Just as I was finishing up and about to set off, I finally got to see the tall fountain of Geneva. I quickly took a few pictures and then ran off in the opposite direction to leave the city behind me as quickly as possible.
When I finally left the city and walked alternately through forests and meadows, I really enjoyed the peace and quiet. I kept looking back at the city and the lake. Due to the strenuous last few days, I took it easy today and took a lot of breaks to enjoy the view again and again.
When I arrived shortly before the border with France, I sat down on a bench. From there I could already see the first houses in France. I sat for a few minutes and thought about my experience in Switzerland. With the realization in my head that I would be crossing the border into France in just a few minutes and leaving Switzerland behind me in less than four weeks, I was very happy and filled with gratitude to have experienced all of this.
After the break I set off again and after just a few minutes I passed a sign that made it clear to me that I was now leaving Switzerland and crossing the border. After crossing the small stream, I arrived in France, where I will continue my journey for the next few weeks.
After almost 18km I wanted to take a break. I took a small detour to a supermarket and on the way back I passed a sign that said there was a campsite with a pool in town for little money. I spontaneously decided to ask if she still had a place for my small tent.
Luckily there was still a spot available so I finished work at 3 a.m. today. I first made myself a coffee with my newly acquired gas cartridge in Geneva.
Since I wasn’t allowed to use my “swimming trunks” for the pool, I had to buy a pair of tight-fitting swimming trunks for €5, which were at least available in a shop right there.
Afterwards I jumped into the cool water of the pool and enjoyed the time. I alternated between the sun lounger and the water and used the massage pool intensively.
Later in the evening I went to eat something at the campsite. I celebrated today’s milestone with live music and a cold beer. Shortly before 10 I made my way to my tent and went to sleep.
Day 28 – Neydens to Chaumont (31,6km) – Friday 28.07.2023
Despite the pleasant place to sleep, I didn’t really sleep well. Since the forecast rain didn’t come at 6 a.m., I just stayed there until 7 a.m. When I set off again, it went straight uphill. Sweating and panting, I quickly gained altitude and got a beautiful view of Geneva and Lake Geneva early in the morning.
I kept passing statues and paintings related to the Way of St. James. It was clear that this route is better known here and that there are more pilgrims than on my previous routes. On the way I passed a small but beautiful church, which was housed in a beautiful vaulted cellar. The path itself continued upwards.
In between I passed a house that was completely covered in Christmas decorations and had a Christmas tree in front of the house. To my surprise, Christmas songs were also playing over the loudspeakers. It’s kind of a confusing sight to see a house like this in the middle of summer when it’s almost 30 degrees. Unfortunately, I didn’t fully understand the meaning behind it.
A little confused, I then continued my journey and walked even further up. I took a short nap in a meadow until a jogger came by and saw me lying on the grass, visibly amused. After just a few more kilometers I passed a bench with a wonderful view. Since I didn’t want to miss this, I took another break here and made myself a coffee for lunch. While I drank this, I enjoyed the view in the beautiful weather.
Despite these many breaks and the big climbs, I made quick progress. When I read in the afternoon about a pilgrim accommodation that was supposed to be in a town not far away, I decided to go there. If there is no more space there, I would simply set up my tent somewhere nearby. There were plenty of good places to spend the night in the area.
After a final, sweaty climb, I arrived at the pilgrim accommodation in Chaumont. It was an old house with a dormitory in which two pilgrims were already staying. I chatted a bit with the Spaniard Joaquin. As I learned, he made a pilgrimage from Jerusalem to Rome and was now on his way to Santiago de Compostela. Not only did he do this very long tour at once, but he had also made pilgrimages from home to Santiago three times.
Next to Joaquin there was a French woman who unfortunately didn’t speak German or really English. Since my French doesn’t really go far beyond a greeting, we couldn’t really have a conversation.
Later they were joined by a young couple from Switzerland who wanted to cycle from Geneva to Lyon and got lost. So they spent the night in the pilgrims’ accommodation and wanted to see how they could get back to the actual route the next day.
Over dinner together at the accommodation, we talked a bit about the different routes and motivations and then drank some beer and wine together.
Since the weather was forecast to be good for tonight and there was a nice spot in front of the accommodation, I and the younger couple set up my tent there. So I had a quiet place to sleep at night and didn’t have to sleep in the mattress. At 10 a.m. I fell asleep in my cozy tent.
Day 29 – Chaumont to Seyssel – Saturday 29.07.2023
Since we had agreed to meet at 7:30 a.m. for breakfast together, I took down my tent at 7 a.m. As I quickly discovered, I had chosen my sleeping place better than the others. Apparently the night was very windy and the younger couple quickly made it clear to me that they had barely slept because of the wind. I didn’t notice much about it myself, but I had also set up my tent in a place protected from the wind.
After breakfast together, we washed up briefly and then I was the first to set off again. Although I had a short stage for today, I still wanted to finish it as quickly as possible. Heavy rain showers were reported in the afternoon. So I quickly ran down the mountain and was able to enjoy the view while the weather was still good. It was nice to see the hills and mountains and running was very easy for me today. After just two hours I had completed half of the route I planned for today.
I take advantage of the good weather again on a bench to take a break and enjoy the view. A little later the rain started and from then on I was out and about in my rain jacket. But the light rain didn’t stop me from continuing to run.
I walked up and down small paths along the forest. At 2 p.m. I already had my sights set on today’s destination. In addition to the town of Seyssel, I was also able to see the Rhone for the first time, which I will follow tomorrow. Since the hotel in town unfortunately no longer had room for me, we then went on to the campsite. Despite the reported heavy rain, I have to spend the night in my tent. But at least I should be protected there from the thunderstorms.
I bought dinner at the supermarket next door and then prepared it at the campsite. I use the rest of the rainy evening to write on my blog and read a bit.
After I finished writing the blog and took a nap to recover, I took a shower. At around 8 a.m., as it was now raining heavily, I went back to the restaurant. Since I was still hungry, I wanted to have dinner there. Just as I was about to order, the two pilgrims I met last night came through the door. They sit down at the table with me and we have dinner together. For me there was a burger with Camembert. Joaquin and I drank a glass of wine together and around 9 a.m. each of us went to our camp for the night. I lay down in my tent, which was still dry inside despite the heavy rain and was looking forward to my cozy sleeping bag in this weather.
P.S. As soon as I’m back in accommodation with internet, I’ll do a little summary of the route in Switzerland and an overview of the entire route. This should perhaps help some people to understand a little better where I am at the moment and how much I still have to do.
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