Day 81 – Germika-Lumo to Bilbao (21,3 km) – Thuesday 19.09.2023
After a quick breakfast, we left the accommodation like everyone else and set off again. Since we had gone down to the accommodation yesterday, we were allowed to walk back up straight away in the morning. After we got back on the path, we followed it for a long time through beautiful forest and meadow landscapes.
After a few smaller climbs and descents, we could already see our destination for today. We had a good view of the city of Bilbao from a mountain and took a final break at a viewpoint.
Then came the descent into the big city. There we had to follow the path through the streets for a few more kilometers. After visiting the cathedral, we booked a place in a cheap hostel in the old town and headed there.
When we arrived at the hostel, we put down our backpacks and continued walking through the city with flip-flops. We strolled along the river and saw some of the sights.
After walking around for a while, we returned to the hostel. I wrote briefly on my blog and then we went looking for a restaurant for dinner. With a full stomach, we walked briefly through the city again, sat down at a bar by the river and drank another beer. At around 10 p.m. we went back to the hostel and went to sleep.
Day 82 – Bilbao to Pobena (27,7 km) – Wednesday 20.09.2023
At half past eight we went to have breakfast at the hostel. After eating some toast, we set off again. At first we followed the river through the city. We passed the famous Guggenheim Museum and crossed the river with a bridge.
After that the path unfortunately became a bit unpleasant. We had to follow the river on a tar road for almost 10 km. However, most of the time it went through an industrial area and there were neither ascents nor descents. The few kilometers felt like an eternity and we were happy when we finally reached a smaller town and the industrial facilities were at least replaced by houses.
At least we were able to cross the river there on a suspension railway that was worth seeing. Unfortunately, this bridge was one of the few highlights of the hike today. After we crossed over, we had lunch at a restaurant.
Afterwards we continued on paved paths. For some time we walked right next to the highway or crossed it.
Only in the last few kilometers did we go through somewhat green landscapes. The beautiful sea was waiting for us at the destination.
We set up our tents in a pilgrim accommodation and then went for a bit of a swim in the sea. Unfortunately, due to the strong waves, swimming was not allowed further out and so we splashed around in the shallow water. After the short swim, we went to a local restaurant and ordered a pilgrim menu. For €12 we got a large salad plate, then a main course, which for me consisted of quail with fries, and finally a dessert. We were also given a bottle of house wine. Since I was still hungry after the inexpensive menu, I bought a large sandwich, which was also very cheap at €2.
After dinner we ended the evening outside and then went to sleep in our tents.
Day 83 – Pobena to Castro-Urdiales (17,6 km) – Thursday 21.09.2023
Unfortunately, the nearby highway was louder than expected tonight. Thanks to ear plugs, we were still able to get some sleep. Contrary to the forecast, the rain didn’t start until 9 a.m. today, but it started to rain lightly at half past six. So we had to pack up our wet tents again. While we prepared a small breakfast and ate it under the roof of the hostel, the rain became heavier and heavier. Soon it was raining really hard.
Since Tobias had to leave me again today and catch a train in the neighboring town, we couldn’t stay seated forever. At around 9 we said goodbye to each other and continued our journey in opposite directions. He ran to the next town to catch his train and I set off in the rain for my next leg.
In heavy rain, I walked alone along the coast and was completely soaked after just a few minutes. Due to the strong wind, the wind came not only from above, but also from the side and from the front. Soon my pants, my socks and therefore my shoes were completely wet, which made walking very uncomfortable.
After walking alone in the rain for almost an hour, I met a Korean who asked me for directions. I then walked with him through the coastal landscape for an hour and a half and talked to him. He talked about his work at home advocating for the reunification of North and South Korea, which I found very impressive and interesting.
After almost 9 kilometers, like most pilgrims today, I decided on the shorter coastal option. I actually thought this one was just a few kilometers shorter. Instead of 23 km, I suddenly only had to complete almost 15 km and so I reached my stage goal at 12 p.m. Since I couldn’t find suitable accommodation for the next few kilometers and didn’t feel like camping in the rain, I decided to call it a day after the very short stage.
First I looked at the city’s old church and castle.
Afterwards I booked a room in a cheap hotel, had a bite to eat in a restaurant and then rested in bed.
Since there was at least a good internet connection in the hotel, I was able to use the time to save pictures and video material and write on my blog. In the evening I watched a film again, which I hadn’t done for a long time, and then went to sleep in my bed.
Review
Here’s a little look back at the route I’ve covered so far. Since the last review, I have left France behind and am now traveling to Spain. The following graphic shows the distance traveled so far and I am currently at the big red dot in Spain. Instead of walking from point 6 to point 7 in Pamblona, we decided to walk around the Pyrenees and cross the border above into Spain. So we didn’t walk the planned (blue) route, but the red route directly from point 6 to point 8.
Since starting from home, I have hiked more than 2200 km and am currently traveling in my 4th country. Apparently I still have almost 650 km to go to Santiago. So I still have a long way to go, but I’ve already completed 3/4 of the entire route.
Here are a few more facts:
- Days on the road: 83
- Days run: 81
- Break days: 2
- Kilometers run: 2214
- Km per day: 27.3 km (not taking into account break days)
- Altitude: 47,840 m
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